Face textures + eyes, improved racial morphs and regenerated facegen, 1k tintmasks (I’m not modifying 600+ maps again, definitely), hair textures and some other crap I forgot about. It brings you new perks, tons of new possible builds to play, new powers & spells etc.
Ultimate Skyrim is 16 other Skyrim modifications joined into one with the aim to make your game more immersive. Finally, open the MCM, and go to the tab that has the hotkeys in there. Most popular Youtubers that do Skyrim content use MO or MO2.